Spotlight on New York jewelry dwelling Marcus & Co.
We’re all acquainted with Tiffany & Co. nonetheless Marcus & Co.? Not rather a lot. Besides you accumulate classic jewelry – by way of which case, it’s best to have this one in your sights.
Present proof: this Marcus & Co. brooch purchased for $66,000 at Skinner in 2013. A yr later, it purchased as soon as extra for $87,500 at Christie’s, Rockefeller Center – not faraway from the place Marcus & Co. as quickly as had its private retailer and competed with Tiffany & Co. to bejewel the city’s wealthiest ladies.
Marcus & Co. was based mostly by Herman Marcus who immigrated from Germany in 1850 to design for Tiffany after which struck out on his private, making use of his private spin to varieties in model on the time, along with revival varieties.
By the purpose Marcus died in 1899, leaving his retailer to his sons, the house had moved on to Art work Nouveau, making use of the mannequin’s signature palette and knowledgeable enameling to objects like this plique-à-jour brooch (correct) usually known as the Rehan Jewel (1895-1905). Have morning glories ever regarded greater?
You could see this brooch to contemplate it. I was ready to do that at “Gilded New York,” the inaugural exhibition of the plush gallery funded by Tiffany & Co., when it opened on the Museum of the Metropolis of New York. I marveled on the craftsmanship however as well as the reality that this brooch survived a century with all its tiny clear panels of suspended glass intact.
Marcus & Co. Art work Nouveau jewels: pendant of 18k, opal and diamonds and ring of 18k, aquamarine and enamel (Skinner March 2017)UPDATE: These Art work Nouveau beauties (above) are on the block at Skinner in March 2017. The opal pendant with that attribute Art work Nouveau whiplash design in 18k gold was estimated at $20,000-30,000. The ring with outdated European-cut diamond accents, delicate plique-à-jour enameling intact and fully matched with these icy aquamarines, purchased for $10,455.
Proper right here’s one different Marcus & Co. plique-à-jour treasure on present in that MCNY exhibit, a necklace of cabochon demantoid garnets, pure pearls and enamel, on mortgage from Siegelson, New York, as was that unbelievable morning glories brooch.
“I really feel Marcus & Co. has been uncared for nonetheless now additional people throughout the know are paying attention to what they did,” says Jeannine Falino, who curated the jewelry in Gilded New York. “Herman Marcus did work for Tiffany for a time, so his talents have been acknowledged in that respect, nonetheless the agency on a regular basis had a sturdy affinity for coloration matching and composition. You see an rising variety of Marcus jewelry on the auctions and it’s on a regular basis pretty unusual.”
Gilded New York had many jewels worth ogling. Must you missed them in NYC, chances are you’ll ogle them throughout the e-book Gilded New York: Design, Type, and Society), most of which might be from Tiffany & Co., considerably G. Paulding Farnham interval, nonetheless only a few from Tiffany’s now-vanished native rivals – Theodore B. Starr, Dreicer & Co., and Marcus & Co. amongst them.
Correct now, I’d say Marcus is the one to have a look at. Along with that alexandrite brooch, this necklace of pure pearls – 352 of ’em – in its distinctive silk-lined, heart-shaped discipline was estimated at $30,000-50,000 at Christie’s in April 2014.
Phrase that estimates on Marcus & Co. objects are on the rise. This may have one factor to do with the reality that a lot of objects by the company purchased for properly above estimates not too way back – and by “above,” I suggest as rather a lot as 10x additional. This heart-shaped jewel, c. 1900, went for $179,000 on an estimate of $15,000 to $20,000 at Sotheby’s New York in February.
A lot much less {{that a}} yr sooner than, Sotheby’s New York had liked a delightful shock with one different emerald magnificence from Marcus & Co. This Deco necklace, c. 1925, with a ten.40ct emerald framed by diamonds and emeralds, went for $106,250 on an estimate of $30,000 to $40,000. (However Sotheby’s put their estimate even lower on the brooch.)
Within the equivalent sale, one different Deco design by Marcus & Co., this 1930 double-clip of diamonds and carved ruby, sapphire and emerald purchased for $78,125 on an estimate of $30,000 to $50,000.
After which, in December 2013, Sotheby’s purchased a Marcus & Co. opal and enamel sautoir, c. 1900, for $56,250 on an estimate of $30,000 to $50,000. Proper right here’s the front and back view:
Granted, these are distinctive objects with constructive gems and, sometimes, extraordinary enamel and gold work. Nonetheless the center stone on the brooch up for grabs at Christie’s this month is alexandrite, not emerald, and take a look on the estimate. That one is additional regarding the enameling and outdated European craftsmanship – treasures Herman Marcus launched over from Germany 164 years up to now – and, merely maybe, the title itself.
Could this mannequin, as quickly as coveted by New York society, be coveted as soon as extra? Let’s merely say, that is prone to be a wonderful time to pull out the loupe, study these jewels from Grandma, and see in case you notice “Marcus & Co.” stamped someplace. Must you uncover it, get thee to an public sale dwelling. On the very least, have that issue reappraised and alter the insurance coverage protection sooner than you placed on it as soon as extra.
Photographs courtesy Christie’s Pictures, Sotheby’s Pictures, and Siegelson New York
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